3DBenchy's bow prints out of alignment
$begingroup$
I'm new to 3D printing, but I've solved all of my problems except for this rough surface shown in the image of a Benchy print:
Any suggestions are appreciated.
- Printer (new): Raptor 2 (400x400x700 mm)
- Bed Temp: 65 °C
- Extruder Temp: 210 °C
- Filament: PLA (1.75 mm) right out of the package (came with printer from
Formbot)
print-quality troubleshooting
New contributor
$endgroup$
add a comment |
$begingroup$
I'm new to 3D printing, but I've solved all of my problems except for this rough surface shown in the image of a Benchy print:
Any suggestions are appreciated.
- Printer (new): Raptor 2 (400x400x700 mm)
- Bed Temp: 65 °C
- Extruder Temp: 210 °C
- Filament: PLA (1.75 mm) right out of the package (came with printer from
Formbot)
print-quality troubleshooting
New contributor
$endgroup$
1
$begingroup$
Hi Harrison, welcome to 3D Printing.SE!
$endgroup$
– 0scar
2 hours ago
$begingroup$
Possible duplicate of Calibration improvement of the prusa I3
$endgroup$
– 0scar
2 hours ago
$begingroup$
You should also specify print speed (see my answer) and layer height.
$endgroup$
– AndreKR
2 mins ago
add a comment |
$begingroup$
I'm new to 3D printing, but I've solved all of my problems except for this rough surface shown in the image of a Benchy print:
Any suggestions are appreciated.
- Printer (new): Raptor 2 (400x400x700 mm)
- Bed Temp: 65 °C
- Extruder Temp: 210 °C
- Filament: PLA (1.75 mm) right out of the package (came with printer from
Formbot)
print-quality troubleshooting
New contributor
$endgroup$
I'm new to 3D printing, but I've solved all of my problems except for this rough surface shown in the image of a Benchy print:
Any suggestions are appreciated.
- Printer (new): Raptor 2 (400x400x700 mm)
- Bed Temp: 65 °C
- Extruder Temp: 210 °C
- Filament: PLA (1.75 mm) right out of the package (came with printer from
Formbot)
print-quality troubleshooting
print-quality troubleshooting
New contributor
New contributor
edited 2 hours ago
0scar
10.5k21446
10.5k21446
New contributor
asked 3 hours ago
HarrisonHarrison
61
61
New contributor
New contributor
1
$begingroup$
Hi Harrison, welcome to 3D Printing.SE!
$endgroup$
– 0scar
2 hours ago
$begingroup$
Possible duplicate of Calibration improvement of the prusa I3
$endgroup$
– 0scar
2 hours ago
$begingroup$
You should also specify print speed (see my answer) and layer height.
$endgroup$
– AndreKR
2 mins ago
add a comment |
1
$begingroup$
Hi Harrison, welcome to 3D Printing.SE!
$endgroup$
– 0scar
2 hours ago
$begingroup$
Possible duplicate of Calibration improvement of the prusa I3
$endgroup$
– 0scar
2 hours ago
$begingroup$
You should also specify print speed (see my answer) and layer height.
$endgroup$
– AndreKR
2 mins ago
1
1
$begingroup$
Hi Harrison, welcome to 3D Printing.SE!
$endgroup$
– 0scar
2 hours ago
$begingroup$
Hi Harrison, welcome to 3D Printing.SE!
$endgroup$
– 0scar
2 hours ago
$begingroup$
Possible duplicate of Calibration improvement of the prusa I3
$endgroup$
– 0scar
2 hours ago
$begingroup$
Possible duplicate of Calibration improvement of the prusa I3
$endgroup$
– 0scar
2 hours ago
$begingroup$
You should also specify print speed (see my answer) and layer height.
$endgroup$
– AndreKR
2 mins ago
$begingroup$
You should also specify print speed (see my answer) and layer height.
$endgroup$
– AndreKR
2 mins ago
add a comment |
3 Answers
3
active
oldest
votes
$begingroup$
You print too hot and probably with too less cooling. These typical defects are caused by too much heat input into your model. You see this best at the overhang of the bow of Benchy, it should be smooth like the bottom part of the side of your Benchy. It clearly shows heat induced defects. Lower the temp at least 10 °C. Know that PLA usually is printable at about 190 °C, also 65 °C for the hotbed is quite high, Depending on the surface you could aim for a temperature between 50 - 60 °C,
$endgroup$
add a comment |
$begingroup$
The artifact your bow clearly shows is a usually a result of very high print temperature - the filament sags unevenly as it is not cooling to solidification fast enough.
You might want to reduce your print temperature for PLA a little. Try one or two 5 degree steps. I print my PLA usually at 200 °C, some blends even lower. Do the same for the print bed - 60 °C is the usual temperature in many machines.
When I unpack 210 °C that's only in conjunction with 100% infill and deliberate overextrusion for what would be best described as a "cast-solid" result. It's because under that conditions I want the filament to melt and merge with everything super tight.
It also might help to change the print cooling geometry to better cool the printed parts.
$endgroup$
add a comment |
$begingroup$
If you printed Benchy upright, this is an overhang. You didn't state the print speed that you used, but I found that I can improve overhang quality considerably by printing them slower.
If you're otherwise satisfied with the print quality, you probably don't want to waste time by printing the whole model slower. If you're using Cura there is a setting in the Experimental section (don't worry, it works fine) to print only overhangs slower:
(Those are very conservative settings, a larger angle, like 30°, would probably be fine, too.)
$endgroup$
add a comment |
Your Answer
StackExchange.ifUsing("editor", function () {
return StackExchange.using("mathjaxEditing", function () {
StackExchange.MarkdownEditor.creationCallbacks.add(function (editor, postfix) {
StackExchange.mathjaxEditing.prepareWmdForMathJax(editor, postfix, [["$", "$"], ["\\(","\\)"]]);
});
});
}, "mathjax-editing");
StackExchange.ready(function() {
var channelOptions = {
tags: "".split(" "),
id: "640"
};
initTagRenderer("".split(" "), "".split(" "), channelOptions);
StackExchange.using("externalEditor", function() {
// Have to fire editor after snippets, if snippets enabled
if (StackExchange.settings.snippets.snippetsEnabled) {
StackExchange.using("snippets", function() {
createEditor();
});
}
else {
createEditor();
}
});
function createEditor() {
StackExchange.prepareEditor({
heartbeatType: 'answer',
autoActivateHeartbeat: false,
convertImagesToLinks: false,
noModals: true,
showLowRepImageUploadWarning: true,
reputationToPostImages: null,
bindNavPrevention: true,
postfix: "",
imageUploader: {
brandingHtml: "Powered by u003ca class="icon-imgur-white" href="https://imgur.com/"u003eu003c/au003e",
contentPolicyHtml: "User contributions licensed under u003ca href="https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/"u003ecc by-sa 3.0 with attribution requiredu003c/au003e u003ca href="https://stackoverflow.com/legal/content-policy"u003e(content policy)u003c/au003e",
allowUrls: true
},
noCode: true, onDemand: true,
discardSelector: ".discard-answer"
,immediatelyShowMarkdownHelp:true
});
}
});
Harrison is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
Sign up or log in
StackExchange.ready(function () {
StackExchange.helpers.onClickDraftSave('#login-link');
});
Sign up using Google
Sign up using Facebook
Sign up using Email and Password
Post as a guest
Required, but never shown
StackExchange.ready(
function () {
StackExchange.openid.initPostLogin('.new-post-login', 'https%3a%2f%2f3dprinting.stackexchange.com%2fquestions%2f8012%2f3dbenchys-bow-prints-out-of-alignment%23new-answer', 'question_page');
}
);
Post as a guest
Required, but never shown
3 Answers
3
active
oldest
votes
3 Answers
3
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
$begingroup$
You print too hot and probably with too less cooling. These typical defects are caused by too much heat input into your model. You see this best at the overhang of the bow of Benchy, it should be smooth like the bottom part of the side of your Benchy. It clearly shows heat induced defects. Lower the temp at least 10 °C. Know that PLA usually is printable at about 190 °C, also 65 °C for the hotbed is quite high, Depending on the surface you could aim for a temperature between 50 - 60 °C,
$endgroup$
add a comment |
$begingroup$
You print too hot and probably with too less cooling. These typical defects are caused by too much heat input into your model. You see this best at the overhang of the bow of Benchy, it should be smooth like the bottom part of the side of your Benchy. It clearly shows heat induced defects. Lower the temp at least 10 °C. Know that PLA usually is printable at about 190 °C, also 65 °C for the hotbed is quite high, Depending on the surface you could aim for a temperature between 50 - 60 °C,
$endgroup$
add a comment |
$begingroup$
You print too hot and probably with too less cooling. These typical defects are caused by too much heat input into your model. You see this best at the overhang of the bow of Benchy, it should be smooth like the bottom part of the side of your Benchy. It clearly shows heat induced defects. Lower the temp at least 10 °C. Know that PLA usually is printable at about 190 °C, also 65 °C for the hotbed is quite high, Depending on the surface you could aim for a temperature between 50 - 60 °C,
$endgroup$
You print too hot and probably with too less cooling. These typical defects are caused by too much heat input into your model. You see this best at the overhang of the bow of Benchy, it should be smooth like the bottom part of the side of your Benchy. It clearly shows heat induced defects. Lower the temp at least 10 °C. Know that PLA usually is printable at about 190 °C, also 65 °C for the hotbed is quite high, Depending on the surface you could aim for a temperature between 50 - 60 °C,
answered 2 hours ago
0scar0scar
10.5k21446
10.5k21446
add a comment |
add a comment |
$begingroup$
The artifact your bow clearly shows is a usually a result of very high print temperature - the filament sags unevenly as it is not cooling to solidification fast enough.
You might want to reduce your print temperature for PLA a little. Try one or two 5 degree steps. I print my PLA usually at 200 °C, some blends even lower. Do the same for the print bed - 60 °C is the usual temperature in many machines.
When I unpack 210 °C that's only in conjunction with 100% infill and deliberate overextrusion for what would be best described as a "cast-solid" result. It's because under that conditions I want the filament to melt and merge with everything super tight.
It also might help to change the print cooling geometry to better cool the printed parts.
$endgroup$
add a comment |
$begingroup$
The artifact your bow clearly shows is a usually a result of very high print temperature - the filament sags unevenly as it is not cooling to solidification fast enough.
You might want to reduce your print temperature for PLA a little. Try one or two 5 degree steps. I print my PLA usually at 200 °C, some blends even lower. Do the same for the print bed - 60 °C is the usual temperature in many machines.
When I unpack 210 °C that's only in conjunction with 100% infill and deliberate overextrusion for what would be best described as a "cast-solid" result. It's because under that conditions I want the filament to melt and merge with everything super tight.
It also might help to change the print cooling geometry to better cool the printed parts.
$endgroup$
add a comment |
$begingroup$
The artifact your bow clearly shows is a usually a result of very high print temperature - the filament sags unevenly as it is not cooling to solidification fast enough.
You might want to reduce your print temperature for PLA a little. Try one or two 5 degree steps. I print my PLA usually at 200 °C, some blends even lower. Do the same for the print bed - 60 °C is the usual temperature in many machines.
When I unpack 210 °C that's only in conjunction with 100% infill and deliberate overextrusion for what would be best described as a "cast-solid" result. It's because under that conditions I want the filament to melt and merge with everything super tight.
It also might help to change the print cooling geometry to better cool the printed parts.
$endgroup$
The artifact your bow clearly shows is a usually a result of very high print temperature - the filament sags unevenly as it is not cooling to solidification fast enough.
You might want to reduce your print temperature for PLA a little. Try one or two 5 degree steps. I print my PLA usually at 200 °C, some blends even lower. Do the same for the print bed - 60 °C is the usual temperature in many machines.
When I unpack 210 °C that's only in conjunction with 100% infill and deliberate overextrusion for what would be best described as a "cast-solid" result. It's because under that conditions I want the filament to melt and merge with everything super tight.
It also might help to change the print cooling geometry to better cool the printed parts.
answered 2 hours ago
TrishTrish
5,176938
5,176938
add a comment |
add a comment |
$begingroup$
If you printed Benchy upright, this is an overhang. You didn't state the print speed that you used, but I found that I can improve overhang quality considerably by printing them slower.
If you're otherwise satisfied with the print quality, you probably don't want to waste time by printing the whole model slower. If you're using Cura there is a setting in the Experimental section (don't worry, it works fine) to print only overhangs slower:
(Those are very conservative settings, a larger angle, like 30°, would probably be fine, too.)
$endgroup$
add a comment |
$begingroup$
If you printed Benchy upright, this is an overhang. You didn't state the print speed that you used, but I found that I can improve overhang quality considerably by printing them slower.
If you're otherwise satisfied with the print quality, you probably don't want to waste time by printing the whole model slower. If you're using Cura there is a setting in the Experimental section (don't worry, it works fine) to print only overhangs slower:
(Those are very conservative settings, a larger angle, like 30°, would probably be fine, too.)
$endgroup$
add a comment |
$begingroup$
If you printed Benchy upright, this is an overhang. You didn't state the print speed that you used, but I found that I can improve overhang quality considerably by printing them slower.
If you're otherwise satisfied with the print quality, you probably don't want to waste time by printing the whole model slower. If you're using Cura there is a setting in the Experimental section (don't worry, it works fine) to print only overhangs slower:
(Those are very conservative settings, a larger angle, like 30°, would probably be fine, too.)
$endgroup$
If you printed Benchy upright, this is an overhang. You didn't state the print speed that you used, but I found that I can improve overhang quality considerably by printing them slower.
If you're otherwise satisfied with the print quality, you probably don't want to waste time by printing the whole model slower. If you're using Cura there is a setting in the Experimental section (don't worry, it works fine) to print only overhangs slower:
(Those are very conservative settings, a larger angle, like 30°, would probably be fine, too.)
answered 4 mins ago
AndreKRAndreKR
1737
1737
add a comment |
add a comment |
Harrison is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
Harrison is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
Harrison is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
Harrison is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
Thanks for contributing an answer to 3D Printing Stack Exchange!
- Please be sure to answer the question. Provide details and share your research!
But avoid …
- Asking for help, clarification, or responding to other answers.
- Making statements based on opinion; back them up with references or personal experience.
Use MathJax to format equations. MathJax reference.
To learn more, see our tips on writing great answers.
Sign up or log in
StackExchange.ready(function () {
StackExchange.helpers.onClickDraftSave('#login-link');
});
Sign up using Google
Sign up using Facebook
Sign up using Email and Password
Post as a guest
Required, but never shown
StackExchange.ready(
function () {
StackExchange.openid.initPostLogin('.new-post-login', 'https%3a%2f%2f3dprinting.stackexchange.com%2fquestions%2f8012%2f3dbenchys-bow-prints-out-of-alignment%23new-answer', 'question_page');
}
);
Post as a guest
Required, but never shown
Sign up or log in
StackExchange.ready(function () {
StackExchange.helpers.onClickDraftSave('#login-link');
});
Sign up using Google
Sign up using Facebook
Sign up using Email and Password
Post as a guest
Required, but never shown
Sign up or log in
StackExchange.ready(function () {
StackExchange.helpers.onClickDraftSave('#login-link');
});
Sign up using Google
Sign up using Facebook
Sign up using Email and Password
Post as a guest
Required, but never shown
Sign up or log in
StackExchange.ready(function () {
StackExchange.helpers.onClickDraftSave('#login-link');
});
Sign up using Google
Sign up using Facebook
Sign up using Email and Password
Sign up using Google
Sign up using Facebook
Sign up using Email and Password
Post as a guest
Required, but never shown
Required, but never shown
Required, but never shown
Required, but never shown
Required, but never shown
Required, but never shown
Required, but never shown
Required, but never shown
Required, but never shown
1
$begingroup$
Hi Harrison, welcome to 3D Printing.SE!
$endgroup$
– 0scar
2 hours ago
$begingroup$
Possible duplicate of Calibration improvement of the prusa I3
$endgroup$
– 0scar
2 hours ago
$begingroup$
You should also specify print speed (see my answer) and layer height.
$endgroup$
– AndreKR
2 mins ago